Welcome!

Terve! Welcome to the continuation of my life in Finland and other parts of the world. My master's lead me on all sorts of unforeseen adventures...hopefully this next degree (it's true) does too!

Sunday 29 April 2012

B-Side


So...now for the B-side.  These are the adventures that family may not want to hear about...but...in retrospect they are too entertaining to be ignored.  It's a bit of the darker side of our adventure, which could be called "A Series of Unfortunate Events." Sorry it's soooooo long!


Zentralfriedhof, Vienna 
It all started with about 5 hours of sleep (instead of the desired 8+ hours) the night before we got on an all-too-early train to Lappeenranta.  We had to take this train even though our flight didn't leave until 4 hours after our train arrived.  There was a pretty solid snowstorm passing through the area when we left Finland, so we were pretty happy to be heading South to sunnier climes....or so we thought.  Upon arrival in Italy (a small airport North of Milan) we found it to be grey and rainy, but it was a bit warmer than what we left behind! So warm, in fact, that one of our fellow Finnish passengers collapsed on the bus from the airport to the local bus station.  After 2 hours of sitting on a bus that drove in circles around small towns and stopped every few minutes, we finally found ourselves in the town of Como where we planned to have a lakeside picnic in the Italian Alps and drink a bottle of Italian wine.  Except, by this point it was raining so hard that neither of us had any desire to sit outside. And we couldn't find a wine store that was open.  And the lakeside was under construction.  So we had very disappointing pizza and Bellinis in a small restaurant bar that was packed with locals (who weren't eating or drinking anything...we noticed after).  Then, exhausted, we went for a walk along the lake and pretended to see the Alps rising in the distance...and pretended not to see the used condoms floating in the water. After our disappointing dinner we took the train to the next airport where we were flying out of the next morning (check in at 4:30!).

ahh...the beautiful Italian Alps...clear air and clean water! Como
The best (read: cheapest) solution was to just spend the night in the airport.  Now, I had never done this and was very skeptical if there was any sleep to be had.  So I brought earplugs, eye covers, and a pillow with the hope that these items may make sleeping in a public place slightly more comfortable.  Milan Malpensa Airport was specifically designed to deter people from sleeping there.  All of the chairs had armrests.  All of the rooms were big and open with concrete floors (think airplane hangar).  We finally found a relatively cozy (and clean) place between stairs and a wall.  This created a small half-hallway about 1.5m by 5m.  I had a jacket and towel to help pad my bed on the stone floor and April put her professional-airport-sleeper setup together.  As I was changing to "sleeping clothes" (a bit redundant in hindsight) I made a comment about along the lines of "wouldn't it be funny if security showed up now."

"I've never had a problem with security sleeping in airports...everyone does it..." said April.  Well, that was asking for it.

Within 15 minutes of getting settled down, April reached over and shook me to get my attention.  The police were there (not the ordinary police...the military immigration officers).  They didn't really speak any English, but they wanted our passports ("no problem...normal control...security control....no problem"). So, like obedient Canadians who have been living in the Finnish Systeemi, we handed our passports over.  They proceeded to take our passports, walk across the room (to make some good distance between us), radio in all of our information, and check all of the visas we have each been issued.  We were over-tired, under-informed, and tensions were running high.  After 10 minutes of insisting "No Problems," we finally saw evidence of this and our passports were returned to us.  Finally...we breathed a sigh of relief and settled down again....

Only to be disturbed 30 minutes later by another young traveler who had just gone through the same ordeal as us, except the police didn't believe him...so he was hiding from them...and thought it would be a good idea if he could join us and sleep in the little hallway.  Well....uh....ok....we guess....................worst decision of the night.  He was more interesting in talking, and SMOKING, and being generally annoying than sleeping.  I was busy pretending to be asleep (eye covers, earplugs), so unfortunately April took the brunt of his interests.  Finally, he seems like he's settling down, but (like the rest of us) he's not very comfortable on the stone floor.  He starts trying to steal April's bedding out from under her...little by little...until there was more of his legs ("smelly boy feet") on April's clean towel than there was April.  So she took it back. And then he tried to take it back.  April soon gave up on this tug of war and told him to GO AWAY. Which caused him to pout by being noisy, calling us names, and blowing cigarette smoke all over us.  Finally, April was on the verge of tears and she told him that he was not nice, and mean, and that he had to leave.  NOW.  She was not a polite Canadian at this point, now she had adopted her angry Irish side.  Understandably. So...he left. And we slept...for about 1.5 hours.  And then he returned about 15 minutes before we had to wake up for our flight anyways. So, we got up early and left him alone in the hallway.  We went to the bathroom to change and freshen up after such a long night.  I put my clothes for the day on the counter...but as soon as I turned my back, they slipped into the motion-detector controlled sink and the tap turned on soaking them. 

sharing an airmatress on the only available floorspace was much better than the airport floor!! Vienna
Keep in mind that this is all in the first day.  The second day was slightly less eventful.  We flew to Munich, took the train to the city, and were checked into our hostel by 8:30am.  We did manage to shower, but we didn't have time to nap before our friend arrived and our days in Munich began.  Now, it was probably due to a lack of sleep, but within 3 hours of arriving in Munich, April lost her passport.  Unfortunately we didn't notice until we had been in Munich for about 10 hours.  This resulted in a very stress-filled evening for April...running around the city to every place we had been that day...and once again talking with police officers about passports.  She concluded that nighttime policemen in Germany are much nicer than nighttime policemen in Italy.

The passport-finding mission! Munich
Day three brought the return of the passport from the police station in downtown Munich.  We also got poor service and dirty looks from a waiter for an hour or so because we sat in the wrong section of the restaurant.  When we tried to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial we got lost 3 times on a marked trail that was "really easy to follow."  It took so long for us to get lost that we didn't get there until it had closed, but we managed to get in for an hour or so before they kicked us out.  The weather was cold, grey, and depressing, but we were happy to know that as soon as we had left, Finland got its first bout of real spring weather: cloudless blue skies on spring snow and warm sunshine.

hard to see...but there is a pretty steady stream of water emanating from the bathroom fan above my head...Munich
Day four brought a creepy roommate to the hostel...or maybe he just didn't understand English? That would explain the strange looks he gave to everyone else. He got back to the room at 2am and proceeded to talk on his phone the rest of the night and sort through papers on his bed using a flashlight...that he would occasionally use to watch other people in the room sleeping.  Finally, he sprayed on copious quantities of cologne (in the small room) and left.  That morning we had showers...but Anna's shower didn't stop when she turned the water off.  Instead, there was water pouring out of the light fixtures and ceiling fan in the bathroom.  I guess a pipe burst in the ceiling above us...the front desk man was not impressed.  For breakfast, April got a slice of liver paste sausage, which left a bad taste in her mouth.  We took the train from Munich to Salzburg...but we didn't quite make it to Salzburg because the train was so delayed it decided to save time by turning around and going back to Munich.  But if we got off at the next stop, we could take a commuter train into Salzburg.  This was all announced in German, making life slightly challenging. Upon arriving in Salzburg we got slightly lost, but ultimately found our hostel.  I have never encountered so many rules at a place of accommodation in my life...personal belongings on the floor = verboten. moving furniture = verboten. leaving a chair untucked = verboten.  taking 1/2 a roll at breakfast = verboten...really?!  Anyways, we deposited our bags (not on the floor!) and went out to get groceries so we could cook ourselves a late dinner.  After much debate, we returned to the hostel with eggs, bacon, and veggies to make an omelette.  It was at this point that we discovered that there were no cooking facilities in the entire hostel.  We would've boiled the eggs in a kettle at this point, but there was no kettle to be found.  Bringing your own food was probably verboten.  So, April made a valiant attempt at cooking an egg in the hot water from the tap.  Unfortunately this was not successful, and, after an entire night of "cooking" under the hot water we had nothing but lukewarm liquid egg whites the next morning.

The creepy hostel roommate...? Nope...just another friend we found in Munich
It is also noteworthy that the next morning we woke up to an absolute whiteout of a snowstorm.  Not a week earlier, it had been 18C and sunny in Salzburg.  Now that we had arrived, it was 1C and snowing. hard. I was thoroughly unimpressed. Other than the freezing horizontal sleet, the rest of our stay in Salzburg went well...until we tried to leave.  We wanted to leave our bags at the front desk while we went for a hike on the last day, but it turned out the front desk of our oh-so-convenient hostel was closed from 10am to 5pm, so the baggage service was useless to us. After hauling our bags around, we caught the next train to Vienna at twice the anticipated price.  They also oversold the train so there were no seats left.  This left April and I sitting on the floor between coaches, which is better than the others who had to stand in the aisles for over an hour. We were actually told to get off the train at the first stop (Linz) where we had to wait 30 minutes for the next commuter train to Vienna, which was not so crowded. Not impossible, but annoying.
Spring in Salzburg

Finally, once in Vienna, things started to go right.  Yes, there was some major confusion finding the friend who we thought we were going to stay with, but We stayed with a different friend instead!  And we got lost a few times, but we had a map and always made it in the end.  The bus ride to Budapest went smoothly, and we didn't really encounter anymore major roadblocks until we tried to catch a plane from Budapest to Milan.  It was yet another 6am flight, so we were catching the taxi at 4am.  However, we did't wake up until 4:05...which made the taxi driver mad...so he charged us extra...and we went to the wrong terminal.  So, we were already cutting our timing close when we arrived at terminal 1, only to find that our flight actually departed from terminal 2, which was 7km away.  So, yet another expensive cab ride later, we found ourselves in the correct place, waiting in line...but we made it just on time. It was a quick flight to Milan, where we spent the day in a small town, then finally flew home to Finland.

Overall, it was definitely and adventure, but I would've been happy with a little less excitement on my vacation!

Thursday 19 April 2012

The Good, The Bad...and The Ugly?

snowy, icy, cold...poor magnolia
Preamble
So, I have finally returned from a 11-day adventure that took me from Finland to Italy to Hungary and back again.  Don't get me wrong, I had loads of fun...but...well...let's just say it was an adventure and sometimes it's really nice to be home again.  I have decided to divide the story of this adventure into two sides, like a record.  There's the A-side with the songs you want to hear, but then there's the B-side...perhaps a bit uglier.
Mmm...street meat! 

A-Side
The A-side of this adventure began with a relaxing morning train ride from Joensuu to Lappeenranta, a relatively similar town to the South. After a relaxing stopover coffee, we found our way to the airport where I boarded my first ever RyanAir flight.  Yes, the tickets were a very good price...but you also pay in other ways.  Obviously the luggage, food, drinks...but also constant advertising everywhere!  This includes the overhead compartments with energy drink commercials, to the PA system with alcohol ads, to the cabin stewards unenthusiastically flashing garish scratch-and-win cards in lopsided handfulls up and down the aisle.  Upon arriving in Milan, we took a scenic bus ride away from the airport and spent our stopover time in a little town on the edge of a lake in the foothills of the Alps.  It was spring in Italy and it felt so good to be in the green hills where the birds have returned!!  Italian pizza dinner with Bellinis.  Then there was the train back to a different airport, where we spent the night with another friendly traveler we met at the airport.  The next morning we were up bright and early to board our plane to Munich.
Ahh..Munich!
Munich was great.  April and I met up with two friends (one Finnish, one German) during our time in Munich and enjoyed many cultural experiences!  We dined on Bratwurst and many other kinds of homemade sausages and pretzels.  We drank fantastic local beer, which was a pleasure after months of expensive Finnish beer (if you have tasted Finnish beer, you will better understand the quality-value issue here).  We also visited some standard tourist sites such as Nymphenburg Castle.  There is a concentration camp memorial site, Dachau, just out of the city that is very worthwhile to visit.  Public transit gets you most of the way there and once at the site there is excellent information which is well presented.  There were tall poplars lining the main "road" down the centre of the barracks, which are just foundations at this point.  It was very eerie to think of everything those poplars had stood through over the years; from the construction of the camp, through the war, to the demolition of the camp, then finally the cleanup and establishment of the memorial. 

Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site
After Munich, we took a train across the Austrian border to Salzburg.  I find traveling by train to be relaxing, and the cheap commuter trains that we took also had excellent people-watching potential!  Apparently there were nice mountains to be seen along this journey, but the spring weather was too intense to see much beyond the green field lining the tracks. We found our hostel near a large park in a residential area, which we thought would offer some excellent "hiking" and picnicking opportunities during our stay! The next morning we woke up to a white world out our window...it seems that Finland had followed us to Austria.  The snow mostly stopped by late morning and certainly made some photos more interesting!  When in Austria, you must eat apple strudel (Apfelstrudel)!! It is excellent...particularly when warmed and accompanied by a hot cup of coffee on a cold morning.  Salzburg was picturesque.  Everything from the blue-green (silty) river and parks, to the giant fortress, and old buildings that are full of character.  April and I both noted how fantastic it was that each apartment block (the old ones) was treated more like a work of art than a development project.  This was also true in Vienna, our next stop.

In the fortress above Salzburg!  A great view...just don't lean too far over!
We spent the longest amount of time in Vienna.  It was the largest city on our trip and we also have the most friends there...for now (they're all moving elsewhere in a couple of weeks!).  It was fantastic to see   so many people who we spent so much time with before they left Finland in January!  They were also so welcoming and each offered us a different perspective as a tour guide in Vienna.  On the first night we were in Vienna, our friend was taking us on a little walking tour of the centre and we had only made it as far as the Opera House when we saw that there was a ballet on that evening.  April really wanted to see that ballet (Anna Karenina), but it was the final night, and only 5 minutes before the start time. Fortunately, there was a free showing of it where chairs were set up in front of an enormous screen and speakers on the side of the opera house.  Ultimately, we watched the entire ballet, with the sunset and stars in the background against the lit side of the opera house, on a Viennese sidewalk...it was AMAZING!  Other days in Vienna included a lot of sightseeing around the city, coffee and fine cakes in all sorts of posh cafés, and even a visit to an immense graveyard (Zentralfiedhof) that is now the resting place of Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Strauss, and more than 2 million others.  I would definitely go back to Vienna, simply because there is so much more to see and do in and around the city; 4 days was simply not enough!

Building snowmen in Salzburg...on the lawn of the historic site.  Dass es verboten...probably.  We didn't stick around to find out!
We only had 2 days left (well...2.5 I guess).  We spent the first of those final days in Budapest with one of April's friends from UBC who lives there.  We did basic touristy things...climbed the hill, went to the market, visited the church in a cave (very interesting!), and of course, soaked for several hours in the Hungarian thermal baths (just like a hot springs/spa/hotel that you can find all over the world).  It was lovely...though we did smell slightly sulphureous after the fact!  After yet another early morning flight (they are the cheapest), we found ourselves in the outskirts of Milan in a town called Bergamo for a 7-hour stopover.  It's a 2€ city bust trip from the airport and offers everything a tourist could want from a town in Northern Italy: views of the Alps, restaurants with local wine and homemade pasta, cathedrals, bakeries (with an amazing panforte)...and crazy drivers on even crazier roads! Our final flight got us back to Lappeenranta just after the last train to Joensuu, so we stayed one more night on the road, then took the much anticipated train back home.

Sidewalk ballet at the Vienna Opera House!
Overall, it was lovely to visit friends while getting a taste of some other parts of Europe!  It was also lovely to get a 2-week advance on spring; although, I miss the green leaves and warm breezes I grew accustomed to!  Fortunately the snow is melting quickly now...Unfortunately that means it is raining...

the B-side story will follow! soon...I hope... In the meantime...more photos!


The theater in Vienna.  One of the many super fantastic buildings in Old Vienna
The Pest side of Budapest. The city is divided in half by the Danube River. One side is called Buda (where I was standing) and the other side is Pest (in the photo). I had no idea until I went there!

Ahh...to have an Italian back garden like this one!  A beautiful spot to spend a spring afternoon.  Unfortunately I was just standing on the wrong side of the fence when I took this photo...

Tuesday 3 April 2012

Procrastination

So, I've been meaning to write a new post for ages and ages now, but nothing ever seems to happen...as you may have noticed.  Sorry.  Now it is 11pm the night before I am embarking on a 2-week holiday around central Europe with April (and mostly arranged by her too...99.9%). Main travel stops include: Milan, Munich, Salzberg, Vienna, and Budapest.

So...What have I been up to the past 4 or 5 weeks?
  - School (40%)
  - Procrastination (40%)
  - Outdoor Recreation (20%)
It should be noted that procrastination also includes very worthwhile endeavors such as doing laundry, swing dancing classes, taking part in "cultural events" and margarita nights.

However, since I am boarding a train in less than 7 hours, I will limit this blog post to everything I have already written, plus the following few photos...
mmm...homemade margaritas!

funtimes in the Finnish forest!  We were actually spending the day ice fishing (pilkkiminen) and took a break for a lunchtime fire in the forest

Just looking at this makes me feel cozy...there's nothing quite like a happy cat!

making some traditional Savolainen food.  Pork, fish, salt, butter, and rye flour.  Kalakukko.

the cooked kalakukko.  chunks of the rye outside are slathered with butter and loaded with pork and fish from the inner filling.  The entire concoction is baked for 7+ hours so that the fish bones disintegrate. 

A sure sign of spring.  Many people are already saying that it feels like summer.  The -10 and 50cm of snow leave me with a different opinion, but then again, more than 13hrs of daylight REALLY helps!

Sipping boxed wine and enjoying the sunset at the cottage!  I spent last weekend in a hunting cottage near the small town of Rautavaara.  That was an adventure in itself!

Another sign of spring!  In the winter, icicles were note widespread because the sun didn't have enough strength to melt the snow and make the required dripping water!

Yet another sunset

Across the lake Saarinen

The cottage!  Yes, with solar panels...the indoor lighting was quite nice!

I really wish I had gotten my act together earlier, I do have some good stories and tidbits to share...perhaps I will have time to assemble some thoughts enroute over the next couple weeks!